We arrived in Sulmona late on a Saturday afternoon under a sky dark with threatening storms. We quickly found a parking spot near our apartment and checked in just before the heavy rain hit. The apartment was delightful — spacious, bright, and perfectly located in the heart of the old town, just steps from Piazza Garibaldi. Our balcony offered lovely views over the square and toward the mountains.

That evening, with the storm raging, we ventured out in search of dinner. It proved much harder than expected. We ran from restaurant to restaurant in the pouring rain, only to find everywhere fully booked. Eventually we found a kind bar that put together a couple of simple pizzas and served them with a good bottle of local red wine.

Having arrived with no strong expectations, we were pleasantly surprised by Sulmona the next day. We discovered a beautiful ancient town filled with elegant buildings, charming cafés, excellent restaurants, and wonderfully friendly locals.

We quickly settled into the relaxed rhythm of Sulmona life. We went out early to avoid the fierce summer heat, then retreated indoors during the hottest part of the day. In the cooler evenings, the whole town came alive for the passeggiata. We found our favourite cafés (especially Café Venti Settembre), restaurants, and produce stores. We shopped at the twice-weekly market and cooked many meals at home using incredibly fresh local ingredients.

Within minutes of our apartment were a butcher, fishmonger, fresh pasta shop, fruit and vegetable store, and bakery — a cook’s paradise.

We also made enjoyable day trips to the pretty hilltop village of Pacentro (with its impressive Castello Caldora and stunning mountain views) and the popular mountain town of Pescocostanza, a lively summer destination with beautiful old streets and a vibrant piazza.