Vang Vieng Laos

Our journey to Vang Vieng, Laos began with some trepidation. Boarding the bus from Luang Prabang, we had heard numerous horror stories about the mountainous trip. Our concerns were not eased when the bus driver handed out travel sick bags as we set off.

The main road south, Route 13, wends its way through an impressive mountain range. Every turn offered jaw-dropping scenery as the bus climbed one mountain and descended the other side, only to climb the next. We passed several small villages clinging precariously to the mountainsides and navigated around landslides that had covered the road with mud, which local villagers were diligently clearing with shovels.

Seven hours and 250 kilometers later, we arrived in the town of Vang Vieng. Having no real expectations of the town was a good thing as it turned out to be rather underwhelming. Despite being surrounded by incredible scenery, the town itself had little to offer. After a quick walk up the main street, we were so unimpressed that we booked seats on the first bus out the next morning. Vang Vieng had evolved from a small village into a backpacker haven, attracting travelers with its tubing on the Nam Song River, drunken antics, and the infamous “Happy Meals.” One of our favorite signs spotted in the main street read, “Super Happy Pizza Extra Strong.”

Now, don’t get me wrong; I enjoy a drink and a bit of a party. However, I struggle to see the benefit of traveling all the way to Laos just to get wiped out and not remember anything. For those planning to tube the river or jump from one of the many towers into the water, it’s worth noting that the nearest medical help is in Thailand, at least five hours away, and the closest thing the town has to an ambulance is a tuk-tuk.

We stayed in a guesthouse on the edge of town, which was the “our choice” in a famous guidebook. With cold water only, no sink, mosquitoes the size of small jet fighters, and beds as hard as concrete, it certainly was not “my choice.”

The following morning saw us standing on the side of the road, waiting for a tuk-tuk to take us to the bus station for our trip to Vientiane.

P.S. Despite our less-than-stellar experience in Vang Vieng, I’m glad we caught the bus from Luang Prabang. The scenery was some of the most amazing I have ever seen, but Vang Vieng is certainly not on our list of “must-visit-again” places.

**UPDATE: In 2014, the Lao government cracked down on the illegal bars and clubs in Vang Vieng after several international tourists died in river accidents. We revisited Vang Vieng in 2014 and found a very different and pleasant town. The raucous atmosphere had been replaced with a more laid-back vibe, making it a much more enjoyable place to visit. The once notorious party town had transformed into a destination where the natural beauty could be appreciated without the overshadowing chaos. It was a stark contrast to our first visit and a reminder that places, much like people, can change and grow over time.