Day Seven: From Khongoryn Els Sand Dunes to the Flaming Cliffs

Southern Gobi

Distance: 170 km

The next morning greeted us with clear, sunny skies and a light but very cold wind. It seemed the storm had decided to take a detour elsewhere.

We hopped into the van and made our way to the highest part of the Khongoryn Els Sand Dunes, which rise 300 meters high. The dunes were truly impressive. One member of our party ventured about halfway up, while the rest of us admired the view from the base. Even from our vantage point, the panorama was breathtaking—sandy plains stretching out, marshy land interspersed with a small river, and the towering dunes framed by contrasting jagged mountains.

After soaking in the scenery, we set off towards the Flaming Cliffs (Bayanzag), an important archaeological site and a small settlement where we could finally get a shower. The journey took us across flat plains and up through a stunning mountain pass. As we navigated the pass, we all stared out the windows in awe, repeatedly exclaiming, “Wow!” Once we descended to the plain on the other side of the mountains, we drove for many kilometers, watching an impressive storm brewing in the distance. Gobi storms, like everything else in this vast desert, are quite remarkable.

We stopped for lunch in the middle of the plain, where the grass was greener and grazing conditions better compared to the arid regions we had traversed.

Reaching the tiny settlement of Bulgan, we picked up supplies, enjoyed some ice cream, and most importantly, headed to the public bathhouse for a much-needed shower. We had to wait about half an hour for the boiler to heat the water. The shower facilities were not as luxurious as our previous bathhouse—the water was a tiny trickle and not very warm. However, it was a shower, and after days of relying on wipes and scarce water, even a small amount of running water felt like a luxury.

By the time we finished our showers, the storm that had eluded us earlier had caught up. We had to seek shelter in a ger rather than camp outdoors. The intrepid Victor managed to find us accommodation in a tourist camp, which had the unusual feature of a restaurant shaped like a giant tortoise.

That evening, we enjoyed a relaxing time drinking beer with the camp owner and engaging in conversation about his business and life in Mongolia. It was a fitting end to a day filled with adventure and new experiences.