Travelling In The Gobi Desert Day 10

Day 10: Holy Mountain to Hustai National Park

Distance: 240 km

On our tenth day, we set out in search of the elusive Takhi, the last truly wild horse. The morning greeted us with clear skies and a growing wind. As we enjoyed breakfast, we observed a local Nomad meticulously painting the horns of his goats for identification.

We left the Gobi Desert behind, heading northeast across the steppes of Central Mongolia. The drought was starkly visible as we crossed vast stretches of stony and sandy plains with minimal vegetation. Many Nomads had abandoned the area, leaving behind an almost desolate landscape.

Throughout our journey, we were struck by the extent of overgrazing. The Gobi Desert and Mongolian Steppes are heavily grazed, with goats and sheep consuming everything in their path. The government rewards herders with large herds, creating a peculiar contrast with the severe drought and extensive overgrazing.

As we traveled, distant mountains remained tantalizingly out of reach. By lunchtime, we finally neared the mountains and spotted trees—our first in ten days. We relished a pleasant lunch beside a river, the second we’d encountered on our trip.

After leaving the treed oasis, we navigated rough roads and forded rivers, all while watching playful marmots in the paddocks. Though marmots are often associated with bubonic plague, their cuteness was undeniable, and with no plans to eat them, we felt safe.

A flat tire briefly delayed us, but our reliable driver Gambaa quickly replaced it with one of the three spares he carries, and we were soon back on track.

Arriving at Hustai National Park, we were greeted by a massive dust storm. As we drove through, we spotted a Takhi stallion by the road—a rare sight. A little further, we encountered a group of people with a young, ill Takhi being treated by vets from the park’s research station. The vet’s passion for his work and the conservation of these horses was evident and inspiring.

As the storm raged, we spotted three more Takhi grazing nearby and a herd on the hills above, though visibility was challenging due to the dust. We reached our camp for the night—a family-owned Ger. Unfortunately, it was dusty, poorly maintained, and the toilet was a rough squat log-drop in a field.

Despite the cold, we enjoyed the beautiful sunset and warmed up by the fire inside the Ger. We toasted with vodka, reflecting on our incredible journey through the Gobi Desert with Gambaa and Victor. The expertise and professionalism of our guides from Golden Gobi, based in Ulaanbaatar, made this trip truly unforgettable.