The Dogu Express Across Turkey

Catching The Dogu Express From Kars To Ankara

When researching the easiest overland route from Georgia to Eastern Europe, I discovered the most straightforward path was through Turkey. During my search, I came across vague references to the Dogu Express, a train journey spanning Turkey.

Intrigued, I decided to embark on the Dogu Express—a 30-hour journey across Turkey.

Having traveled across Russia on the Trans-Siberian Railway, my expectations were high, and the Dogu Express did not disappoint. Our two-berth cabin featured a mini fridge, sink, and numerous charging points, essential for long-haul trips.

We boarded in Kars at 23:50, finding our beds already made up. We quickly settled in and fell asleep to the soothing clack-clack of the train on the tracks.

The scenery was breathtaking. Expecting dry, flat plains, we were pleasantly surprised by the diverse landscapes. The train wove through gorges, followed rushing rivers, and crossed vast plains where farmers were cutting hay.

At lunchtime, the train stopped in Divrigi, a small town at the base of a mountain with an ancient fort and a 780-year-old UNESCO-listed mosque and hospital. Despite our aversion to tours, we hiked into town, enjoyed a delicious meal in a tiny cafe, wandered among old Ottoman buildings, and climbed the hill to the mosque. Though it was covered in scaffolding, the carved doors were impressive. We returned to the train with ice cream and beers, making it back just before departure.

Our next three-hour stop was in Bostankaya, about 30 km from Sivas, known for its 13th-century Seljuk architecture. Choosing not to join a tour to Sivas, we explored Bostankaya briefly before retreating to our cabin to enjoy tuna on crackers, beer, and movies on the laptop.

By now, the train was three hours late. We hoped it wouldn’t lose more time, as we had a connection to catch in Ankara.

After watching a movie, we again fell asleep to the rhythmic clack-clack of the train and woke on the outskirts of Ankara. During the night, the train had gained an hour, so we were only two hours late, allowing us to catch our Ankara-Istanbul train without issue.

Due to track works, we were bussed the last 40 km, arriving in Ankara at 07:30, two hours and 25 minutes late. We had enough time for breakfast before boarding the high-speed YHT train bound for Istanbul.