Lucca Stories 2017: A Timeless Charm Rediscovered

My first visit to Lucca was thirteen years ago during a winter day trip from Siena, and it left a lasting impression. Despite the saying “you can never go back,” which often rings true as memories fade or expectations disappoint, Lucca proved to be just as captivating as I remembered.

We arrived in early May, perfectly timed before the summer crowds arrived. The city buzzed with activity but remained pleasantly manageable. While tourist hotspots like Chiesa San Michele and Via Fillungo were busy, the quieter parts of Lucca offered a serene escape.

Spring had arrived in full force, with temperatures in the mid-20s Celsius, ideal for relaxing in a piazza with a coffee, spritz, or wine. We stayed in a charming attic apartment in an old house, offering picturesque views of rooftops and distant mountains. Most of our meals were prepared in the apartment, where we took advantage of Italy’s exceptional local produce. Shopping at local delis and fruit stores allowed us to create delicious meals with just a few simple ingredients.

Each morning began with a visit to the corner bar for coffee or tea paired with a cornetto con marmellata. These cornetti, resembling a croissant but more ‘bready’ and filled with jam, evoked fond memories of my breakfast routine in Venice. In the evenings, we enjoyed Aperol Spritz at a local bar, savoring the complimentary snacks like pizza slices, focaccia stuffed with prosciutto and cheese, and a variety of crisps and peanuts—always a delightful and civilized touch.

A culinary highlight of our trip was dining at Baralla, a restaurant recommended by our landlady. We sought out eateries frequented by locals, serving authentic, homemade Tuscan dishes. Baralla delivered on all fronts with hearty, unpretentious fare that was both comforting and delicious.

We spent our days walking along the historic city walls, wandering through Lucca’s charming alleys and streets, and simply soaking in the local atmosphere. The essence of Italian life unfolded before us as we relaxed and observed the world around us. Lucca had not only lived up to my memories but had deepened my appreciation for its timeless allure.