After our time in San Cristóbal de las Casas, we headed to San Miguel de Allende — a town frequently described as a must-visit destination in Mexico. The journey was long and tiring. We first took a bus from San Cristóbal to Mexico City (a gruelling 18 hours instead of 16 due to multiple immigration checks), then changed buses for the final four-hour leg north. In total, we spent nearly 24 hours on the road.

Our Airbnb was a lovely modern house in a quiet neighbourhood with a roof terrace offering panoramic views. However, during one of the town’s sudden heavy rainstorms, the roof garden flooded, sending water cascading inside. We spent part of our stay mopping up and protecting our belongings.

Despite this, the house was comfortable and well-equipped. Just a short walk away we found a charming local café that became our daily spot for excellent coffee and pastries. For dinner one evening we enjoyed a fantastic Italian restaurant with rustic charm, fresh pasta, and good wine — a welcome treat after the long journey.

San Miguel de Allende is undeniably beautiful. The iconic pink sandstone Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel dominates the main plaza, and the cobblestone streets lined with colourful colonial buildings are picture-perfect. However, we were surprised by how heavily Westernized the town felt. The main square has a Starbucks, and the large supermarket is inside a modern shopping mall that could be anywhere in the United States. The strong presence of expats and tourists has brought a level of commercialism that, for us, took away much of the authentic Mexican feeling.