Brantôme: The Ultimate Guide to Brantôme
Brantôme, often called the "Venice of Périgord," is a picturesque riverside town in the northern Dordogne (Périgord Vert), encircled by the gentle loops of the Dronne River. This idyllic spot features stone bridges, calm waters, medieval streets, and a stunning Benedictine abbey carved into the cliffs — making it one of the most charming and photogenic destinations in the region.
Famous for its 8th-century abbey founded by Charlemagne, ancient troglodyte caves, an 11th-century bell tower (one of France's oldest), and peaceful boat trips, Brantôme offers a perfect blend of history, nature, and relaxed French village life. It's an ideal base for exploring the Dordogne, with easy access to châteaux, caves, and markets, plus excellent local cuisine (foie gras, walnuts, truffles).
This ultimate guide covers the best things to see and do in Brantôme, including its rich history, top highlights, walking routes, practical tips, and how to get there — everything you need for an unforgettable visit to this enchanting riverside gem.
History of Brantôme
History of Brantôme
Brantôme's origins trace to the 8th century when Charlemagne founded the Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Pierre in 769, donating relics of Saint Sicarius (Sicarius). The abbey was built into the limestone cliffs, with troglodyte caves serving as early monastic dwellings. The town grew on the island-like promontory encircled by the Dronne River, along an ancient Roman road and pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela (Via Lemovicensis).
Destroyed by Vikings in the 9th century and damaged during the Hundred Years' War, the abbey was rebuilt multiple times, with the current structures dating mainly from the 11th-18th centuries. The famous detached 11th-century bell tower stands atop a rock pinnacle. The Renaissance façade hides troglodyte caves with bas-reliefs (including a "Last Judgment" scene). Today, the abbey houses the town hall, while the site remains a classified historic monument, preserving Brantôme's medieval and monastic heritage.
Highlights of Brantôme
Brantôme captivates with its serene river setting, stone bridges arching over the Dronne, and the dramatic abbey complex carved into cliffs. The town's car-free center invites leisurely strolls along quays, through narrow lanes, and past half-timbered houses. Boat trips reveal scenic views, while the troglodyte caves offer a glimpse into ancient monastic life.
Key sites include the abbey with its bell tower climb for panoramas, riverside paths, and nearby attractions like canoeing or markets. The peaceful atmosphere and natural beauty make it a standout in the Périgord Vert.
Key highlights:
- Abbaye de Brantôme – Benedictine abbey & troglodyte caves tour
- 11th-century bell tower (one of France's oldest) – Climb for views
- Dronne River & stone bridges – Scenic promenades & boat trips
- Troglodyte caves & bas-reliefs (Last Judgment scene)
- Medieval streets & riverside quays
- Musée Fernand Desmoulin – Nearby art & history museum
- Canoe/kayak on the Dronne & gentle river activities
- Weekly markets & local Périgord cuisine
Walking Tour – Things to See and Do in Brantôme
A visit to Brantôme typically takes 2–4 hours (longer with boat trips or abbey tour). Park in free lots near the river (center is compact and pedestrian-friendly with gentle paths).
1. Abbey & Bell Tower – Start at the Abbaye de Brantôme. Explore the abbey grounds, visit the church, and take a guided tour of the troglodyte caves (bas-reliefs, dovecote, monk quarters). Climb the iconic 11th-century bell tower for panoramic views over the town and river.
2. Riverside Promenade – Stroll along the Quai de la Dronne. Admire stone bridges, weeping willows, and reflections in the calm water — perfect for photos.
3. Old Town Streets – Wander narrow lanes with medieval houses, flower-filled windows, and small squares. Visit artisan shops or cafés for local treats.
4. Boat Trip or Canoe – Rent a canoe/kayak or take a short electric boat tour on the Dronne for unique perspectives of the abbey and cliffs (seasonal).
5. Musée Fernand Desmoulin – If time allows, visit this nearby museum for local art and history exhibits.
6. Relaxation – End with a drink at a riverside terrace or picnic by the water.
Tips: Wear comfortable shoes for uneven paths/steps. Visit early or late for fewer crowds. Combine with nearby sites like Bourdeilles Château or Villars Cave (short drive). Check tourist office for tour schedules.
Getting to Brantôme
Brantôme is easily accessible in northern Dordogne, best by car for flexibility, though public transport options exist.
By air: Nearest airport is Bergerac Dordogne Périgord (EGC, ~1 hour drive south via N21). For international flights, use Bordeaux-Mérignac (BOD, ~2 hours north). Rent a car at either for easy transfer. Taxis or shuttles available but limited.
By train: No direct station in Brantôme. Nearest major hub is Angoulême (~1 hour by local train/bus) or Périgueux (~30-45 min drive). From Paris, take TGV to Angoulême (2.5 hours), then connect. Check SNCF for schedules; car recommended onward.
By car: Excellent access via N21 from Périgueux (~30 min) or Bordeaux (~1.5-2 hours). From Bergerac ~1 hour. Free parking near town center/river. Ideal for exploring surrounding Périgord Vert.
Tips: Rent a car for rural Dordogne flexibility. Scenic drives along river valleys. Book summer transport ahead.
Fun Facts about Brantôme
Brantôme has a fascinating monastic and riverside heritage. Here are some interesting facts:
- Founded by Charlemagne in 769, the abbey is one of the oldest Benedictine sites in France, originally housing relics of Saint Sicarius.
- The detached 11th-century bell tower, built on a 12m rock pinnacle, is among France's oldest surviving bell towers.
- Troglodyte caves behind the abbey façade include a "Last Judgment" bas-relief and served as monk cells, dovecote, and more.
- Known as "Venice of Périgord" due to the Dronne encircling the town like canals, but with cleaner water and far fewer crowds.
- Brantôme lies on the ancient Via Lemovicensis pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela, attracting travelers for centuries.
