Bergerac: The Ultimate Guide to Bergerac
Bergerac is a vibrant riverside town in the Périgord Pourpre region of the Dordogne, celebrated for its world-famous wines, connection to the legendary Cyrano de Bergerac, and charming medieval old town. Straddling the Dordogne River, it features half-timbered houses, cobbled lanes, elegant squares, and a lively atmosphere blending history, gastronomy, and culture.
Known as the "city of Cyrano," Bergerac offers excellent wine tastings (Bergerac, Monbazillac), a renowned tobacco museum, scenic river cruises on traditional gabarres, bustling markets, and easy access to nearby châteaux like Monbazillac. It's an ideal base for exploring southwest Dordogne, with its mix of urban energy and southern French douceur de vivre.
This ultimate guide covers the best things to see and do in Bergerac, including its rich history, top highlights, vineyards and wines, walking routes, how to get there, and practical tips — everything you need for an unforgettable visit to this wine-loving gem of the Dordogne.
History of Bergerac
History of Bergerac
Bergerac developed as a key river port on the Dordogne from the Middle Ages, prospering through trade in wine, tobacco, and goods transported by gabarres (flat-bottomed boats). It was intermittently English-controlled from 1152 to 1450 during the Hundred Years' War and became a Protestant stronghold in the 16th-17th centuries, site of the 1577 Treaty of Bergerac during the Wars of Religion. Fortifications were destroyed in 1621 by royal forces.
The town features 11th-17th century architecture: Notre-Dame church, Cloître des Récollets (17th century), Maison Peyrarède (Kings’ House), and the Tobacco Museum honoring centuries of cultivation. Though Cyrano de Bergerac (the real 17th-century poet) never lived here—his name linked via a distant fief—the association endures. Today, Bergerac thrives as a wine and cultural hub in the Dordogne.
Highlights of Bergerac
Bergerac enchants with its picturesque old town of half-timbered houses, charming squares like Place Pelissière, and the scenic Quai Cyrano along the Dordogne River. It's renowned for wine heritage, with free tastings at Maison des Vins, and cultural sites like the Tobacco Museum. Statues of Cyrano add literary charm, while river cruises reveal the Biosphere Reserve's nature.
The town offers vibrant markets, artisan shops, riverside paths for cycling or strolling, and nearby châteaux for wine tastings. Its blend of history, gastronomy, and relaxed pace makes it a delightful Dordogne destination.
Key highlights:
- Quai Cyrano & riverside promenade
- Statue of Cyrano de Bergerac & other Cyrano monuments
- Musée du Tabac (Tobacco Museum)
- Église Notre-Dame & medieval old town streets
- Maison des Vins de Bergerac – Wine tastings & education
- Cloître des Récollets (17th-century cloister)
- Gabarre river cruises on the Dordogne
- Weekly markets & local gastronomy (foie gras, truffles, wines)
The Vineyards of Bergerac
The Bergerac wine region, part of South West France, spans around 12,000 hectares and produces a diverse range of wines from 13 appellations. Influenced by Bordeaux grape varieties and terroirs, it offers reds, dry whites, rosés, and renowned sweet whites, often at excellent value compared to Bordeaux neighbors.
Key grape varieties include Merlot (dominant for reds), Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec for reds; Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle for whites. The region's clay-limestone soils and mild climate yield balanced, expressive wines.
Main appellations and wine styles:
- Bergerac & Côtes de Bergerac – Versatile reds (full-bodied, Merlot-led), dry whites, rosés; Côtes stricter for quality and aging potential.
- Monbazillac – Iconic sweet white dessert wines (Sémillon-dominant, botrytized like Sauternes), with notes of honey, apricot, and nuts; excellent with foie gras.
- Pécharmant – Elegant, structured reds (Merlot-based, often called "the Saint-Émilion of Bergerac"), suitable for medium-term cellaring.
- Rosette – Rare, delicate sweet whites (medium-sweet to sweet), light and elegant.
- Montravel / Côtes de Montravel / Haut-Montravel – Dry to sweet whites, with sweet versions similar to Monbazillac.
Visit Maison des Vins in Bergerac for free tastings of multiple appellations, or explore nearby châteaux like Monbazillac for tours and tastings amid vineyard views.
Walking Tour – Things to See and Do in Bergerac
A visit to Bergerac typically takes 3–5 hours (longer with tastings, cruises, or market day). Park near the river or old town (free/paid options; center is walkable with some cobbles).
1. Quai Cyrano & Riverfront – Start along the Dordogne promenade. Admire views, bike paths, and modern-rustic blend; visit Maison des Vins for free Bergerac wine tastings in the historic cloister.
2. Old Town & Cyrano Statue – Cross to Vieille Ville. See the famous Cyrano statue, wander cobbled lanes, half-timbered houses, and squares like Place Pelissière (cafés, flowers).
3. Église Notre-Dame & Historic Sites – Visit the 11th-century church, explore narrow streets, and view Maison Peyrarède.
4. Musée du Tabac – Tour the Tobacco Museum in the town hall for 3,000 years of history (exhibits on cultivation, trade).
5. Gabarre Cruise – Book a 50-min river trip on a traditional barge for scenery, fauna/flora, history, and wine tasting onboard.
6. Markets & Relaxation – On market days (especially Wednesday/Saturday), enjoy fresh produce; relax at a terrace with local wine or cuisine.
Tips: Wear comfortable shoes for cobbles. Visit mid-week for fewer crowds or market days for vibrancy. Combine with nearby Monbazillac Château (10-min drive) for wine tastings. Check tourist office for current schedules.
Getting to Bergerac
Bergerac is well-connected despite its smaller size, with good options by air, train, and car.
By air: Bergerac Dordogne Périgord Airport (EGC / Roumanière), 3 km south of town, offers seasonal low-cost flights mainly to/from the UK (Ryanair to Bournemouth, Bristol, Edinburgh, Liverpool, Leeds Bradford, East Midlands; Jet2 and others to various UK spots), plus Brussels-Charleroi, Rotterdam, and occasional others. From Paris or major hubs, fly to Bordeaux-Mérignac (BOD) then transfer (train/bus/car ~1.5h). Taxis/shuttles connect airport to town center.
By train: Bergerac station on the Bordeaux-Bergerac-Sarlat TER line. From Paris (Montparnasse or CDG), take TGV to Bordeaux or Libourne (2-3h), then TER to Bergerac (1-1.5h total ~4-5h). Direct-ish from Bordeaux (~1h). From Sarlat (~1-1.5h). Check SNCF for schedules.
By car: Excellent access via A89 motorway (Paris ~5-6h/589 km; Bordeaux ~1h). From Sarlat ~45 min-1h. Parking available in/near town (some paid near center). Car ideal for exploring vineyards/châteaux.
Tips: Rent a car for flexibility in rural Dordogne. Airport transfers easy; trains scenic along Dordogne valley. Book ahead for peak summer.
Fun Facts about Bergerac
Bergerac has a colorful heritage tied to legend and trade. Here are some interesting facts:
- The famous Cyrano de Bergerac (poet, playwright) never lived here—his name linked to a distant family fief; the association popularized by Edmond Rostand's 1897 play.
- Bergerac was a major tobacco hub; the Musée du Tabac traces its 3,000-year global history, from Amerindian origins to local cultivation.
- The Dordogne River section here is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, with gabarres once vital for trade before roads/rail.
- Bergerac wines include sweet Monbazillac (like Sauternes) and robust reds; free tastings at Maison des Vins highlight the region's 13 appellations.
- The town hosted the 1577 Treaty of Bergerac, a short-lived peace effort in the Wars of Religion between Henry III and Huguenots.
