1. Tirana — The Reborn Capital

Tirana is one of Europe’s most surprising capitals. Once a grey, isolated outpost, it has transformed into a colourful, cafe-filled city with a contagious energy. The centrepiece is Skanderbeg Square, a vast pedestrian plaza surrounded by Ottoman-era architecture, Italian-built government buildings, and the striking Et’hem Bey Mosque. The Blloku neighbourhood — once reserved for communist elite — is now Tirana’s trendiest quarter, packed with bars, restaurants, and boutiques.

Highlights:

• Bunk’Art 1 & 2 — immersive museums in Cold War bunkers
• Sky Tower rotating bar for panoramic city views
• Grand Park & Artificial Lake for afternoon walks
• New Bazaar (Pazari i Ri) for local food and produce
• Day trip to Dajti Mountain via cable car (€8 return)

2. The Albanian Riviera — Saranda, Himara & Ksamil

The Albanian Riviera is the country’s crown jewel — a stunning stretch of Ionian coastline with crystal-clear waters, hidden coves, and beachfront guesthouses that cost a fraction of nearby Greek islands. Saranda is the main hub, a lively seaside town with a promenade full of restaurants and bars. Himara offers a more laid-back vibe with beautiful beaches and a historic hilltop village. Ksamil features tiny islands you can swim to — some of the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean.

Highlights:

• Ksamil Islands — swim to uninhabited islets (beach chair: €5)
• Himara old town — cobblestone streets with sea views
• Jalë Beach — quieter alternative with turquoise water
• Lekursi Castle sunset viewpoint above Saranda
• Ferry to Corfu, Greece — only 30 minutes from Saranda

3. The Accursed Mountains — Valbona & Theth

The Accursed Mountains (Bjeshkët e Nemuna) in northern Albania offer some of the most dramatic alpine scenery in Europe. The Valbona Valley and Theth are the two gateway villages, connected by a spectacular 4–6 hour hike over the Valbona Pass — widely considered one of Europe’s best day hikes. These are places where time moves slowly: traditional stone guesthouses (kulla), home-cooked meals by wood fire, and mountain air that feels like it’s never been breathed before.

Highlights:

• Valbona Pass hike — the most iconic trek in the Balkans
• Theth’s Blue Eye — a stunning natural spring pool
• Grunas Waterfall — a 30-minute hike from Theth
• Lock-in Tower — a UNESCO-protected traditional kulla
• Star-gazing in the Valbona Valley National Park

4. Berat — The City of a Thousand Windows

Berat is one of Albania’s most beautiful towns and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its Ottoman-era houses climb the hillside in terraced rows, their large windows giving the city its famous nickname. The white-walled quarters of Mangalem and Gorica sit on opposite sides of the Osum River, connected by a stone bridge that has stood for centuries. Berat Castle, still inhabited, offers panoramic views of the town and surrounding mountains.

Highlights:

• Berat Castle — one of the few castles still inhabited by residents
• Onufri Museum — stunning Byzantine icons inside the castle
• Mangalem Quarter — maze of cobblestone streets and Ottoman houses
• Gorica Bridge — 18th-century stone bridge over the Osum River
• Wine tasting at local vineyards — Berat region is famous for wine

5. Gjirokastër — The Stone City

Gjirokastër is a UNESCO-protected gem and the birthplace of Albania’s most famous writer, Ismail Kadare. The city is built entirely of stone — stone-roofed Ottoman houses, stone-paved streets, and an imposing castle that dominates the skyline. The old bazaar is a delight to explore, with artisan workshops selling traditional crafts, copperware, and qeleshe (Albanian felt hats).

Highlights:

• Gjirokastër Castle — massive fortress with armaments museum
• Skënduli House — a perfectly preserved Ottoman-era home
• Zekate House — three-storey tower house with stunning architecture
• Old Bazaar — cobblestone lanes lined with craft shops
• Cold War tunnel tour under the castle hill

6. Butrint — The Lost Roman City

Butrint is one of the most important archaeological sites in the Balkans and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Settled by Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, and Venetians, it offers layers of history spread across a lush, forested peninsula. Unlike crowded Pompeii or Ephesus, you can explore Butrint with space to breathe, surrounded by birdsong and the scent of Mediterranean pines.

Highlights:

• Roman theatre — remarkably well-preserved with seating for 2,500
• Baptistery with stunning 6th-century mosaic floors (covered for preservation)
• Venetian castle with museum and views across the Vivari Channel
• Lion Gate — entrance carved with a relief of a lion attacking a bull
• Walking trails through wetland habitats rich with birdlife

7. The Blue Eye Spring (Syri i Kaltër)

The Blue Eye is a natural spring of astonishing clarity and colour — a deep blue centre fading to turquoise at the edges, with water so clear you can see 50 metres down. The spring is over 50 metres deep and the water temperature stays at a constant 10°C year-round. Surrounded by oak forest, it’s a perfect stop on the drive between Saranda and Gjirokastër.

Highlights:

• Hypnotic blue colour — one of the most photographed spots in Albania
• Wooden walkway leading through the forest to the spring
• Mysterious depth — divers have never reached the bottom
• Peaceful forest setting with picnic areas
• Start of the Bistricë River, which flows to the Ionian Sea

Food & Drink

• Try: Fërgesë (baked peppers, tomatoes, and cottage cheese), tavë kosi (lamb with yogurt), byrek (savoury pie), qofte (meatballs), and any grilled seafood on the coast
• Drink: Birra Korça (local beer), raki (grape brandy — strong!), and local wine from Berat or Mirdita regions
• Budget meal: A plate of byrek + salad + drink = €4–6

Safety & Practicalities

• Albania is very safe for travellers — violent crime against tourists is extremely rare
• English is widely spoken by younger Albanians, less so in rural areas
• ATM withdrawal fees can be high — take out larger amounts less often
• Cash is king in smaller towns and guesthouses; cards accepted in Tirana
• Nodding the head = no, shaking = yes (opposite to Western convention!)
• Wifi is surprisingly good and widely available