Château des Milandes: The Ultimate Guide
Château des Milandes is a charming Renaissance-style château in the Dordogne Valley, perched on a hillside overlooking the river in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle. Best known as the former home of legendary entertainer, activist, and humanitarian Josephine Baker, it exudes feminine elegance and is a symbol of her vision for tolerance and unity.
Built in 1489 by François de Caumont for his wife Claude de Cardaillac, the château became Josephine Baker's beloved residence in 1947. She lived here for many years, raising her adopted "Rainbow Tribe" of 12 children from diverse backgrounds while continuing her fight against racism.
This ultimate guide covers the history, main highlights including Josephine Baker's legacy and the gardens, a suggested walking tour of what to see, and fun facts about Château des Milandes – everything you need to plan an unforgettable visit.
History of Château des Milandes
History of Château des Milandes
The château was constructed in 1489 in a Renaissance style with Gothic elements, commissioned by François de Caumont to please his wife. It served as a noble residence for the Caumont family, offering panoramic views over the Dordogne Valley.
In the 20th century, it gained international fame when Josephine Baker rented it in 1940 (using it as a Resistance base during WWII) and purchased it in 1947. She transformed it into a family home and utopian community, hosting her adopted children and creating spaces like a theater, pool, and dance hall.
Financial difficulties led to its sale in the late 1960s after Baker's eviction. Restored in the late 20th and early 21st centuries, it became a museum dedicated to her life in 2001. In 2012, it was awarded "Maison des Illustres" status by the French Ministry of Culture in tribute to Baker.
Today, Château des Milandes is a major tourist attraction celebrating Josephine Baker's extraordinary legacy while preserving its Renaissance charm and beautiful grounds.
Highlights of Château des Milandes
Château des Milandes offers an immersive experience into Josephine Baker's world, with rooms dedicated to her costumes, photos, posters, and personal items. Audio-guides (in multiple languages) narrate her life story, from her rise to stardom in Paris to her wartime heroism and humanitarian efforts.
The estate includes a private 16th-century chapel where Baker married Jo Bouillon, plus seasonal falconry demonstrations with birds of prey soaring over the valley. The site also features a screening room with films about Baker and the château's history.
The château's feminine, elegant architecture contrasts with nearby medieval fortresses, making it a unique stop in the "Valley of the Five Châteaux."
Key highlights:
- Josephine Baker museum rooms with costumes and memorabilia
- Panoramic views over the Dordogne River and valley
- 16th-century private chapel with historical features
- Seasonal bird of prey demonstrations and falconry shows
- Audio-guided tour of the château's Renaissance interiors
- Screening room with films on Baker's life
The Gardens of Château des Milandes
The gardens are a standout feature, classified as "Remarkable Gardens" and listed as Historic Monuments. Originally designed in the early 20th century by renowned landscape architect Jules Vacherot, they feature a classic French-style garden on several terraces with fountains, boxwood parterres, lawns, flower beds, and geometric designs that provide stunning relief and views.
The formal garden complements the château's architecture perfectly, with paths inviting leisurely strolls. Surrounding landscaped park areas offer shaded spots and open vistas over the Dordogne countryside, ideal for relaxation and photography.
Restoration work since 2003 has revived Vacherot's vision, emphasizing biodiversity and sustainable practices. The gardens breathe new life into the estate, symbolizing the harmony Baker sought.
Garden tips: Allow time to explore the terraces for the best photos. Spring and summer showcase vibrant blooms; combine with a falconry show for a full experience.
Walking Tour – What to See at Château des Milandes
A visit typically takes 1.5–3 hours and is self-guided with audio-guides (available in multiple languages). Start at the ticket office (free parking nearby). The route flows through the château, chapel, gardens, and falconry area (seasonal).
1. Entrance & Josephine Baker Rooms – Begin with exhibits on Baker's life, costumes, and achievements in the dedicated museum spaces.
2. Renaissance Interiors & Chapel – Explore the elegant rooms and visit the private 16th-century chapel where Baker married.
3. Screening Room – Watch short films about Baker's career, Resistance work, and the "Rainbow Tribe."
4. French Formal Gardens – Stroll the terraced gardens with fountains, boxwood, and panoramic valley views.
5. Parkland & Views – Wander the landscaped park for peaceful paths and countryside vistas.
6. Falconry Demonstration (seasonal) – End with a thrilling bird of prey show (from April), watching eagles and vultures soar.
Tips: Wear comfortable shoes for garden paths. No reservation needed; arrive early in peak season. On-site brasserie for meals. Pets not allowed inside.
Fun Facts about Château des Milandes
Château des Milandes has a fascinating and inspiring history. Here are some interesting facts:
- Josephine Baker called it her "Sleeping Beauty Castle" and lived here for about 30 years, raising her 12 adopted children as the "Rainbow Tribe."
- During WWII, Baker used the château to hide refugees and Resistance weapons while performing for Allied troops.
- The gardens, designed by Jules Vacherot, are among the "Remarkable Gardens" of France and listed Historic Monuments.
- Baker married Jo Bouillon in the on-site chapel in 1947, turning the estate into a utopian family home.
- It's part of the scenic "Valley of the Five Châteaux," visible during Dordogne river canoe trips.