Bergerac: The Ultimate Guide
Bergerac sits on the banks of the Dordogne River in the Périgord Pourpre, surrounded by vineyards and some of the prettiest countryside in southwest France. It is a lively little town with an attractive historic centre, half-timbered houses, cobbled streets, shady squares and, naturally enough, a considerable amount of wine.
The town is probably best known for two things: Cyrano de Bergerac and wine. Interestingly, the real Cyrano never actually lived here, but that small detail has done very little to discourage Bergerac from embracing him. His statues appear around the old town and he has become firmly associated with the place.
Bergerac is also the centre of one of France’s oldest wine-growing regions, with vineyards spreading across the countryside in almost every direction. Add the Dordogne River, traditional markets, river cruises, good food and an old town that is compact enough to explore on foot, and Bergerac is well worth spending some time in rather than simply passing through.
A Little History of Bergerac
Bergerac grew around the Dordogne River, which for centuries was the town’s main transport route. Long before decent roads arrived, flat-bottomed boats known as gabarres carried wine, timber, tobacco and other goods along the river towards Bordeaux and the Atlantic.
The trade brought wealth to Bergerac and helped create the town that can still be seen today. The old centre contains timber-framed houses, stone mansions and narrow streets dating from several different periods of the town’s history.
Like much of southwest France, Bergerac found itself caught up in the Hundred Years’ War and later the Wars of Religion. During the 16th century it became an important Protestant stronghold, and the Treaty of Bergerac was signed here in 1577 as one of several attempts to bring an end to the religious conflicts sweeping France.
Tobacco later became another important part of the local economy, and that history is now explored in Bergerac’s unusual Musée du Tabac.
Highlights of Bergerac
Bergerac is not a town that requires a complicated sightseeing plan. Much of its appeal is simply wandering through the old streets, stopping for coffee or lunch and eventually finding your way down to the river.
Bergerac Old Town
The historic centre is a maze of cobbled streets, small squares and timber-framed buildings. Place Pélissière is one of the prettiest parts of town and a good place to begin exploring.
Quai Cyrano
Set beside the Dordogne River, Quai Cyrano combines the tourist office with the Maison des Vins de Bergerac. It is a good introduction to the wines of the region and the history of the town.
Musée du Tabac
Bergerac has a long connection with tobacco growing and trade. The museum is housed in the historic Maison Peyrarède and traces the history and culture of tobacco over thousands of years.
The Dordogne River
The river shaped Bergerac and remains one of the town’s best features. Walk along the riverfront or take a trip aboard a traditional gabarre for a different view of the town and surrounding landscape.
Cyrano de Bergerac
You will come across Cyrano more than once while wandering around Bergerac. Several statues celebrate the famous character whose name has become inseparable from the town, despite the historical connection being rather more complicated.
Bergerac Markets
Local markets bring the centre to life with fruit, vegetables, cheese, charcuterie and produce from across the Dordogne. They are also a good excuse to stop and sample a few regional specialties.
The Vineyards of Bergerac
You cannot really visit Bergerac without mentioning wine. Vineyards surround the town and the wider Bergerac wine region produces everything from dry whites and rosés to rich reds and the famous sweet wines of Monbazillac.
The region uses many of the same grape varieties found further west around Bordeaux, including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc for reds, along with Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle for whites.
Bergerac & Côtes de Bergerac
The broadest appellations of the region, producing red, white and rosé wines. The reds are generally Merlot-led, while the whites are fresh and aromatic.
Monbazillac
The best-known wine of the area is a rich sweet white produced in the hills immediately south of Bergerac. Château de Monbazillac is only a short drive from town and makes an easy vineyard excursion.
Pécharmant
Produced just northeast of Bergerac, Pécharmant is known for structured red wines based largely on Merlot and Cabernet varieties.
Montravel & Rosette
These smaller appellations produce a range of white wines, from dry styles through to delicate sweeter wines, and are well worth looking out for while exploring the region.
A Walking Tour of Bergerac
You can comfortably see the centre of Bergerac in half a day, although it is very easy to stretch that into a full day once lunch, wine tasting or a river cruise become involved.
Wander along the riverfront and visit the Maison des Vins before heading into the old town.
Head towards Place Pélissière and wander through the surrounding cobbled lanes, timber-framed buildings and small squares.
There are several statues of Cyrano de Bergerac around town, including one in the historic centre.
The museum occupies one of Bergerac’s most impressive historic buildings and tells the story of the crop that once played an important role in the local economy.
If the boats are running, a trip on the Dordogne gives you a completely different view of Bergerac and provides some insight into the river trade that created much of the town’s early wealth.
Find a table in the old town, order something local and try a glass of Bergerac wine. There are worse ways to finish a day.
Getting to Bergerac
By Air
Bergerac Dordogne Périgord Airport sits just outside the town and operates a number of seasonal European services. Bordeaux Airport is the larger alternative for travellers needing a wider range of flights.
By Train
Bergerac sits on the regional railway line between Bordeaux and Sarlat. The station is close enough to the centre to walk if you are travelling reasonably lightly.
By Car
A car is not necessary for exploring Bergerac itself, but it becomes extremely useful if you want to visit vineyards, châteaux and the smaller villages scattered across the surrounding countryside.
Getting Around
The historic centre is small and best explored on foot. Taxis and local transport are available, although a rental car gives you considerably more freedom once you leave the town.
A Few Things You May Not Know About Bergerac
- The real Cyrano de Bergerac did not live in Bergerac, despite the town enthusiastically adopting him as one of its most famous associations.
- The Dordogne River was once the town’s major transport route, with gabarres carrying wine, timber and other goods downstream.
- Bergerac was historically an important centre for tobacco cultivation and trade.
- The surrounding wine region produces everything from dry white and rosé wines to substantial reds and the famous sweet wines of Monbazillac.
- The Treaty of Bergerac was signed here in 1577 during the French Wars of Religion.
Bergerac can be visited year-round, although spring through early autumn is the best time for enjoying the river, vineyards and surrounding countryside. Markets, museums, vineyard visits and river cruises can operate on seasonal schedules, so it is worth checking opening times before setting off.