We caught the bus from Mérida to Lisbon — a pleasant 4-hour journey through the countryside. We arrived mid-afternoon and took the efficient metro to a stop near our apartment.

We stayed in a charming old quarter not far from the castle and Martim Moniz metro station. Our apartment was delightful and perfectly suited to us. The streets here are wonderfully atmospheric — narrow, winding, cobblestoned, and often steep.

Lisbon feels compact and very walkable. Most mornings we would head out on foot to explore a different part of the city, enjoy a big lunch, and then return to the apartment for a relaxing afternoon siesta. It was the perfect rhythm for our stay.

The city’s strong Moorish history is visible everywhere, especially in the beautiful mosaic tilework (azulejos) that adorns so many buildings. One of the highlights is the Castelo de São Jorge, which sits high above the city and the river. Originally built as a Moorish garrison in the 11th century, it later became a Christian castle and royal residence. The views from the castle across Lisbon are stunning.

We enjoyed some excellent meals during our time in Lisbon. In the Graca neighborhood we had beautifully fresh cod baked simply with garlic and olive oil at A Mourisca. We also found great sardines at a small restaurant near the castle. However, our absolute favourite dining experience was at a tiny Angolan restaurant right across the road from our apartment. With no common language, we put ourselves in the hands of the chef. She did not disappoint! We had baked fish served with white beans in a rich sauce and Calulu — a delicious chicken stew with okra — accompanied by various condiments. The food was fantastic, the people were warm and full of life, and the restaurant often filled with singing and dancing. A truly memorable evening.